We wake at 615am with my alarm, check our bags, check our email, eat the second half of my sandwich. This morning’s hike 53min, took us by a Magna Construction Co. site, our first blah moment, but this town is cute and has a good place to site and public water fountain. It’s still foggy and cool.
12:35pm – Burlada
Today’s camino we’ve managed nine miles before lunch here in Burlada, a short 6km from Pamplona. We eat at Cafe Paradise, most likely a tourista. I tried to say something nice to a nun, who passed by us. She just smiled and patted me on the head. This, Mateo informs me, is the nicest he’s ever seen a Spanish nun act, hopefully because I am a peregrino.
5:00pm – Pamplona
Today’s shoe change was a good change, but it didn’t alleviate my feet pains, but only changed. Today’s pain was merely from number of miles and footsteps, where were quite many.
After Cafe Paradise, Mateo and I followed the city street path – very modern, European, and urban busy. I suppose at one point we missed a camino marker, and it was late before we realized this. We were traveling on a busy city four-lane at a steady up-gradient for probably one-and-a-half miles forward to enter Pamplona proper. We passed the sporting complex of C.D. Amayo. We finally turned into the anicent city. We saw two bars in Hemingway’s honor, found Plaza de Toros, found the Cathedral and then finally found other pilgrims, where we all found a rather large, very clean albergue for only pilgrims. Mateo and I both napped for a few hours and my feer and calves are still very sore. We covered many more miles than yesterday, as the terrain was much less mountainous than the trek to Zubiri.
Everything here – the sleeping quarters, the bathhouse – is coed.
Mateo and I look for a proper meal, which initially leads us to Café Iruña, another Hemingway honorarium, where we have cañas (draft beers) and fritas (fried squid and shrimp), before leaving for a tapas place. We have tortilla española, an omelet of eggs, potatoes, and onions, served on a bun.
We leave the bar to take pictures of the Catedra in the beautiful sky. The cafe across the way is now closed. We walk past an Basque bar with a Basque flag in the back, and mysterious people drinking up front and a general uninviting feeling.